Pet behaviour school

Leading on from our Basic Training features, we're graduating to the Pet Behaviour School with Battersea's Behaviour team.

• Lesson One: Fireworks
• Lesson Two - Christmas
• Lesson Three - New pet in the family
• Lesson Four - Summer
• Lesson Five - Indoor Cats
• Lesson Six - Naughty Boy...
• Lesson Seven - Say it, don't spray it!
• Lesson Eight - Don't leave me this way
• Lesson Nine - Children and dogs
• Lesson Ten - Leading to frustration
• Lesson Eleven - Aggression in cats
• Lesson Twelve - Chewing

Lesson One: Fireworks

Battersea Dogs & Cats Home often receives reports of distressed and lost pets during the autumn months due to fireworks. In our first lesson in the pet behaviour school, Ali Taylor, Battersea's Head of Behaviour, addresses the most common problems and preventative measures pet owners can take during the
firework season.

As you get to know your dog or cat, you will notice changes in his or her behaviour in various situations. During the firework season, which can stretch from the end of October right into January, many pets suffer from adverse reactions to the unusual and sudden sights and sounds associated with fireworks.

• Commonly seen signs may include:

shaking and trembling

excessive drooling

barking and howling

trying to hide

trying to get either into or out of the house or garden

temporary loss of appetite

temporary loss of bladder or bowl control

(Of course, if any of these symptoms become excessive or persist after the fireworks have stopped, you should seek veterinary advice as they may be related to a medical condition)

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to treat a fear if the event that causes it is infrequent or unpredictable. This is also the case with thunder. Dogs and cats have very good hearing and can be very sensitive to loud noises, even from afar. In panic or confusion, they can go to great lengths to escape such as digging under fences, jumping out of open windows or doors, and chewing through leads.

• What can I do to help my nervous pet?

Here are some tips on how to prevent unnecessary stress for your pet during fireworks:

keep all pets indoors during fireworks

keep your pet in a dark, quiet room, preferably a room in the house at the furthest point from the fireworks

if your pet does become stressed, do not comfort him, as this will only reinforce his fear. Instead try and block out any noises. Turn on a radio or the television to distract or muffle any outside noises. It is also important for you to act as normal as possible so your animal does not pick up your anxieties

if your pet is extremely sensitive, consider consulting your veterinary surgeon for a mild sedative or tranquilliser to help keep your pet calm. There are also herbal remedies that are available that can assist your pet with this problem. Consult your vet on these

try to walk your dog before the fireworks begin as some pets are too frightened to go outside to relieve themselves during the noise and this may lead to little accidents later in the evening

if you must go out with your pet, make sure dogs are exercised on the lead and cats are kept in a carrier at all times to avoid them charging off following a loud and sudden bang

make sure your pet is properly identified, just in case he does run off during all the fireworks commotion. Make sure he has a proper identification tag on his collar with your current contact details on. (cats should wear a break away or elastic collar just in case the collar gets caught on something and the cat needs to break free). It is also worth considering getting your pet microchipped (if he hasn't already got one), as a permanent form of ID that helps reunite lost pets with their owners

try desensitising your pet - desensitisation requires sound effect tapes, audiotapes or videos impersonating the sounds of fireworks. This may not work for every pet, especially if the behaviour has been established over a period of years. If using this method, you will gradually need to play your tapes over a period of months, starting with the volume on very low in the background of your home. After a week or so you can then start to increase the volume, although this should be done gradually in order to avoid increased stress levels in your pet. It is also recommended that you do not comfort your pet if he shows signs of anxiety, as this will only reinforce the feeling

if necessary, get a responsible friend or relative that lives in a more rural environment to take care of your pet for a while, but always remember to update your pets id tag with the relevant contact details if he's is staying away from home. Alternatively, you may want to book your pets into a rural boarding kennels to ensure complete safety

Whatever you decide to do - remember that your pet has no idea what fireworks are and may or may not react to them. Be gentle and try to avoid unnecessary stressful situations where possible.

• What if my pet goes missing?

If your pet does go missing, search the local area immediately, as he may be hiding nearby.
Contact your local dog warden or police station to record your pet's details, and call all the local rescue centres to see if your pet has been found and taken into their care. Advertise the loss of your pet by putting up posters in your area, local shops and veterinary surgeries.

If you live within the M25, contact the Lost Dogs and Cats Line at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home immediately, on 0905 477 8477. Calls are charged at 60p per minute.

Lesson Two - Christmas

Christmas is a time for celebration, family gatherings, food, presents and lots of excitement. In some households Christmas can be quite chaotic - what with organising family reunions, the Christmas dinner, the tree, the presents, and the decorations whilst trying to keep the children happy and the in-laws as far apart as possible. However, in some households the pets are often forgotten about amongst all this mayhem which can lead to behavioural problems. Lesson Two helps you make Christmas the season of goodwill for everyone in your household, including your pets. Ali Taylor addresses the various problems that your pet may experience during the Christmas period.

The festive season is also a very exciting time for our pets what with all the food, people and presents around, however it can also prove to be traumatic. Like human beings, some animals will be highly excitable, others may be timid and shy and some may simply want to join in the Christmas fun. Whichever category your pet falls into, all dogs and cats should be supervised throughout the festivities in order to prevent any casualties.

• Common problems to be aware of over Christmas

Christmas trees - if you have a real Christmas tree you should be aware that the needles will fall from your tree over time. They are hard and sharp, and can easily get stuck in animal paws or throats. Keep animals away from them, or frequently clear up the fallen needles.

Christmas tree decorations - cats may show a keen interest towards the baubles and decorations hanging from your Christmas tree, which could result in a nasty accident. Try to use unbreakable baubles, don't use anything too small, and make sure your tree is well anchored, so your cat's attentions can't pull the tree over

flashing fairy lights- these can freak your pet out especially if he is close to them. Try using lights that don't flash on and off

Hanging chocolate decorations - it is advisable not to hang human chocolate from your Christmas tree, as this will be an added temptation for your pet. Human chocolate is bad for your pet - it contains theobromine which is dangerous when eaten in large quantities

holly, mistletoe and yew are poisonous to pets and can be extremely dangerous - so make sure they are well out of reach

loud noises - remember balloons, Christmas crackers, poppers and champagne bottles all go off with load bangs. Ensure your pet is kept away from these noises to prevent unnecessary panic

wrapping paper - always remove wrapping paper (and toys) when not using to avoid your pet chewing or choking on them

over indulgence - if you give your pet human leftovers, only give them a little to avoid diarrhoea. Avoid giving your pets bones that can splinter (i.e. chicken / turkey bones), as these can be dangerous if they get lodged in the throat

visitors - has your dog regularly met all the family members and friends that you might be inviting to your house during the Christmas period? If not, your pet may be a little shy, nervous or apprehensive when meeting people for the first time. Ensure your pet is supervised when they meet your guests for the first time, and that visitors understand the situation

young children - if you have young members of the family visiting over Christmas, your dog or cat is likely to be more excited than usual. Ensure your pet is always supervised around young children especially when they are playing with new toys. Certain toys may be loud or electronically mobile which may excite or scare your pet

Christmas pressies for your pets - make sure your pet presents are dog or cat proof. Buy them from a reputable pet shop or veterinary clinic. Make sure you avoid giving your pet things that may make them act possessively - especially if children are around.

• Don't let these issues worry you too much, as it's easy to avoid most pet related Christmas disasters. As most problems arise from the Christmas tree itself, here are three easy steps to follow to ensure a pleasant, painless Christmas:

build a pen or fenced off area surrounding your Christmas tree to separate pet and tree

move your Christmas tree to a room that your pet is not allowed in, or use a dog gate to limit your pet's access to the room, allowing your pet in the room only when supervised

put your pet in a separate room from the festive mayhem. Choose the furthest room away from the noise, and perhaps leave a radio or television on to block out any noises that may startle your pet. Give your pet something of comfort like his bed, scatter some treats, and leave your dog a nice marrowbone to keep him occupied or some toys to play with.

For additional peace of mind, find out when your veterinary surgery is open over the holiday season, or the number of another vet that has an emergency service available. But most of all - don't forget about your furry friend over the festive season. If you know that your dog or cat may behave in a particular way - think about ways to avoid incidences and accidents. He can enjoy Christmas as much as you!

Lesson Three - New pet in the family

Are you thinking about taking on a pet? Afraid of making the wrong choice? In Lesson Three, Ali Taylor our Head of Behaviour, explains what to think about before taking the plunge.
When thinking of buying or rehoming a new pet it is very important to do your research before hand and consider all the aspects of pet ownership. All dogs and cats require special attention and each have varying needs. Some will require more exercise, time and training then others, not to mention grooming, feeding and veterinary treatment. All dogs and cats differ in personality but people often buy an animal based on its cute looks and often forget about temperament. Owning a pet is a life long commitment and your new pet may be with you for the next 15 years or more, so you must be confident that you are completely able commit yourself for this length of time.

• Questions to ask yourself

Introducing a new pet into your life can be one of the best decisions you could ever make for you and your family. However, unless you consider the following, it may equally be a bad decision.

How much time do you have for your new pet on a daily basis? He or she will need your attention for exercise, play time, grooming etc.

Do you work? If so, how long will your pet be left on its own during the day? If your dog or cat is expected to spend long hours 'home alone' then boredom and frustration could easily develop.

Can you afford the annual costs of owning a dog or cat, in food, vets bills, bedding toys etc?

Have you the type of lifestyle to dedicate time to train your pet? If you get a young animal they may not have received the guidance, socialising and training they need, so you may have to start again.

Is everyone in the household happy about the decision to take on a new pet?

Will the pet have access to an outdoor area?

• Rescue pets

Rescuing a dog or cat can be very rewarding. The process of choosing a rescue pet can vary, especially if your heart rules your head. All rescue dogs and cats will have had at least one home prior to coming in to the rescue centre, and will have arrived there for a variety of reasons. When searching a rescue centre for your perfect companion, you need to be patient and wait for the right one to come along. The rescue centre staff will help you find the most suitable pet for you, your family and lifestyle.

• what to think about before getting a rescue pet

In our opinion, rescue dogs and cats are even better than those bought from other sources. However, they will need as much if not more attention to ensure that they settle into their new home comfortably. When considering a rescue pet you should be aware of the following:

Do you live in an urban or rural location? Not every dog or cat will suit your location, environment and lifestyle.

Meet and interact with your dog or cat before purchasing him to avoid taking on any hints of aggression or nervousness; especially if you have a family with young children.

Have you any other pets at home? You also need to make sure your new and existing pets will get on.

A rescue dog or cat may need lots of time to settle in, as well as more positive guidance, training and socialising than your average pet.

To find your perfect pet, go to a reputable rescue centre who have assessed the animal for both its temperament and health.

Most importantly - if you are at all worried about your new pet's behaviour seek help straight away. Don't allow an issue to develop and become a behavioural problem - call Battersea Dogs & Cats Home's Behaviour Advice Line on 0905 020 0222 (calls cost 25p per minute).

Lesson Four - Summer

It is true to say that with good weather there is an increase of people in our local parks - more dog walkers, sunbathers, picnickers and children, due to the school holidays. In Lesson Four, Ali advises pet owners on things to remember during the summer.

Because there are so many more people out and about in the summer, it's even more important to ensure you are in control of your dog in public places as he is more likely to meet a tempting situation, and not everyone will understand. Keep him on a lead in public places and practice recall with your dog.

• Summer heat dangers

One of the most important things to avoid as summer temperatures soar is heat stroke. Dogs need shady areas to cool down in and should not be over exercised when it's hot - the best times to exercise your dog will be early mornings and late afternoons when it's a bit cooler. Equally, NEVER leave your dog in a car unattended or for any great length of time, as this is one of the most common causes of heat stroke - even if your windows are slightly open.
If your dog does get heat stroke, you need to cool his body temperature down using cold water or ice packs will do. But, don't the dog too much and lower the body temperature too far - a ten-minute application of towels soaked in cold water should be sufficient. It is advisable to then take your dog to a vet for a check up even if he appears fully recovered.

• Behaviour issues

The most common problems we deal with at this time of the year on the Behaviour Hotline, or see in dogs coming in for adoption, is destructiveness, messing or barking. Most owners we speak to are confused and feel that their pet has become disruptive for no valid reason as most of these pets have never displayed this type of behaviour previously.
What we do know is that more people are likely to take a well earned break from work around this time, and school children are on holiday, so pet owners spend more 'quality time' with their pets. Without even realising it, your pets normal routine will have been altered and he has to adjust to the change. Perhaps you have increased his exercise because you have the time to spend with him and, like any athlete, an increase in exercise means he will have even more energy to burn.
With you and the children around even more, your dog will soon become accustomed to having his 'pack members' around. What he won't understand is that this is short term and he will soon have to become more independent again - this is the time when problems start to develop. When you've returned to work or the children have gone back to school, your dog may start to feel insecure about being left on his own. He may become bored or have devised a tactic such as barking, as he thinks this is what gets you to return even if it is four hours or so later. Spending quality time with your dog is important in order to strengthen the relationship but if this is done infrequently then it will only complicate matters.

• Summer rules

Never leave your dog unattended with children, especially in the summertime. Dogs may become more agitated due to the sweltering heat.

Keep him under control when out and about, and on a lead in public places.

Ensure your dog has access to fresh water at all times and that there are shaded areas available.

Don't leave dogs unattended in the garden when it's hot, and remember more dogs stolen from gardens during the summer.

Remember to 'scoop that poop'. Smelly poop on a hot day is not good!

NEVER leave your dog in a stationary car during the summer.

Lesson Five - Indoor Cats

The Behaviour Advcie Line at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home receives many calls from cat owners experiencing problems with their moggies getting up to mischief - in most cases it's simply because they are bored. In Lesson Five, Nancy Clarke, one of Battersea's Advice Line behaviourists, explains how and why to keep your cat both mentally and physically stimulated indoors.

• Why would my cat not be happy?

Cats are highly intelligent specialised carnivores. As natural predators, the cat's ability to see, hear and smell is highly developed and it retains a strong instinct to hunt and explore its environment. However, many of these senses and instincts are made redundant in the domestic home because the cat does not have to hunt for its food ? it appears in its bowl day after day! The cat therefore has to find other ways to amuse himself.

Some problems that can arise when your cat cannot satisfy her natural instincts include boredom, frustration, hyperactivity, aggression to people or other cats and fearfulness. Cats that are restricted indoors are more likely to develop behaviour problems than cats that have access to outdoors. Many indoor cats that sleep during the day cannot be expected to sleep throughout the night as well. Remember that a cat is a nocturnal animal and if we do not provide an alternative playtime then the cat will make up its own routine. Therefore cat stimulation is important for any cat but especially for indoor cats.

• Food for thought / food for the brain

You can make feeding more natural by getting cats to search for their food and by providing it in a form that needs chewing. If you feed dry food, you could put it in small clumps on the floor. You can gradually move the food further away from the bowl each day. The clumps can eventually be scattered throughout the house in different places so that your cat has to search them out.

• cat and mouse!

Chasing and jumping are very natural behaviours for a cat, and give them the exercise that outdoor cats get roaming about. Play with your cat on a regular basis, using small balls, or items such as scrunched up pieces of newspaper, pulled quickly and erratically on the end of a string. You can even buy or tie objects onto small fishing lines and poles so that they can be cast out and moved over a bigger area to encourage stalking and pouncing. Furry, feathery or flapping things are particularly attractive to cats and they also love newspaper tents, cardboard boxes and paper bags - you could consider investing in a 'cat play centre' to provide more stimulation and activity.

• you scratch my back and I'll scratch yours!

A scratching post is a must, as outdoor cats will naturally sharpen their claws on trees or fences, your indoor cat may take to doing the same thing to your furniture! Tall scratching posts can keep your cat active as she can climb from shelf to shelf, or you could attach old pieces of carpet to a wall, which your cat can scratch. You can encourage the cat to use the scratching posts by dusting them with catnip.

• High and mighty!

Cats will choose to lie or sit for long periods in safe places where they can watch the world go by, whether it be street activity, people or animals and you need to make sure these areas are available to your cat. Cats love high-up resting areas and you can encourage your cat to be adventurous and use the height of the rooms by providing walkways between high points. They can also use these walkways to jump and climb between resting-places.

• Catnip and cat grasses.

These plants can be successfully grown indoors in pots from seeds or small plants that are available in most shops. Many cats find catnip (Nepeta) irresistible and will sniff it and roll along side it. Outdoor cats eat grass to help with digestion and fur balls, so you should grow it indoors for your indoor cat. Providing your cat with these plants indoors will also help prevent them chewing on your houseplants. However, keep everything in moderation as some cats can get too excited by these herbs, especially catnip!

Lesson Six - Naughty Boy...

The Behaviour Advice Line at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home receives many calls from owners who are not happy with their dog's behaviour and as a result are tempted to punish the dog for unwanted behaviours, which often doesn't work. Kathryn Thorpe and Nancy Clarke, our advice line behaviourists, explain the do's and don'ts of punishing your dog for unwanted behaviours.

• Why doesn't punishment work?

The use of punishment can have many negative effects, including making your dog feel pain, fear and stress, therefore endangering your dog's welfare. Not only does this mean that your relationship with your dog will start to break down, but, like when humans are in a similar state, the dog's ability to learn and focus will be seriously impeded under such conditions. Therefore the dog will find it even harder to learn not to do the behaviour and you are making life harder for both of you.

Even worse is the fact that where the behaviour is caused by anxiety or fear, the use of punishment can intensify the occurrence and severity of the behaviour problem. For example, a dog that becomes nervous or insecure when left alone in the home may mess in the house. When the owner returns they may verbally or physically punish the dog and therefore further heighten the dogs general anxiety levels. It then follows that the dog is even more likely to mess in the house when left alone.

• Getting the timing right

Never punish your dog for something that he is no longer doing, as it will make your dog fearful of you. For example, if you shout at your dog after you arrive home and discover he has messed in the house he will not associate his past action (messing on the carpet) with your present mood and will instead think that you are being upset with his current behaviour. If you do punish your dog after the act, he will probably try to appease the situation and calm you down by acting submissively (hanging his head low, ears flat, tail tucked under etc.) Contrary to the owner's interpretation of this behaviour, he is not acting guiltily, but from fear of you.

• Punishment means receiving attention

Physical punishment at any time is unnecessary and does not work. If punishment did work the dog should never perform that behaviour again but all too often the behaviour does crop up again. The dog may be trying to get the owner's attention and therefore may even enjoy being chased with a newspaper, as the dog sees it as having gained its owner's attention.

Alternatively the owner may have used punishment in a repetitive and untimely manner, meaning the dog no longer reacts to it. For instance, the punishment may start with the owner shouting 'come' every time their dog runs off on a walk. To begin with the dog pays attention to his owner when he shouts, but learns over time that when it returns to the owner it doesn't get a nice welcome. Subsequently, when the dog runs off the owner starts to get really angry, shouting even louder and more frequently. The dog, unwilling to return to its owner, soon becomes confused about the 'come' command, and, because his owner shouts every time he runs away, quickly believes the command 'come' means 'don't come back'.

• Breakdown in human-dog relationships

It is not uncommon for dogs to interpret punishment as a threat and a challenge. Physical punishment can badly damage the relationship between you and your dog. Depending on your dog's personality, a defence response may result, possibly in the form of aggression. By avoiding the use of punishment the dog will not feel the need to defend itself or compete with you. Instead the dogs respect for his owner can be maintained, so the dog will be more likely to co-operate with the owner. Without a good relationship training can be difficult.

• Is punishment ever appropriate?

In order to show disapproval of a dog's behaviour, the owner has to act at the same time as the behaviour is actually occurring. The owner can try startling the dog by making a sudden loud noise (e.g. banging a book on a table). Great care must be taken however as the owner does not want the dog to associated the loud noise with the owner but with their own behaviour. Therefore the owner must not look or interact with the dog during the process. The dog must think to itself, "although my owner doesn't seem to notice me, that horrid loud noise happens whenever I do this - I don't like that noise so I will try to avoid it by not doing this again".

Lesson Seven - Say it, don't spray it!

>It is quite normal for cats to make their presence known in their own territory, often by scent marking, which includes spraying. Kathryn Thorpe, Battersea's Behaviour Advice Line behaviourist, takes a look at this problem and gives some helpful hints on how to stop it happening.

• What is scent marking?

Cats like to mark their own territory by spreading their own smell in a variety of different ways. They may use their claws to scratch their 'signature' on a scratching post or furniture, or rub the scent glands on their cheeks on different objects, surfaces and people. Cats also deposit small amounts of scent from glands in between the pads but the most disturbing method of scent marking for owners is spraying urine around the cat's territory inside or outside the home

• Why do cats spray?

If a cat feels frustrated, upset, territorial or challenged, it will scent marks its' territory more, both inside and outside the home. Spreading its' scent around makes the cat feel more comfortable; a bit like a person spreading their possessions around a hotel room to make themselves feel more at home. The more anxious and insecure the cat is then the more it feels it needs to surround itself with stronger odours and signals of comfort.

An insecure cat may start to spray urine around the house. Spraying indoors is a normal response for the cat in such circumstances, but undesirable from the owner's point of view in the home.

The typical reasons a cat will become insecure and start spraying indoors include:

Outside noises or disruptions such as building work or changes to the cat's resting-place

Redecorating or even bringing new furniture into your home

The threat of other cats that they are living with or that are entering their territory

The arrival of a new cat, dog or person in the family or the temporary loss of a family member

Indoor spraying seems to be more common in homes that have more than one cat and tends to occur where there is some kind of conflict or problem, such as around doors (if there is another cat lurking on the other side) or curtains where the cat can see rival cats outdoors. New items brought into the house may get sprayed, or even owner's clothes. Some cats also develop odd spraying habits such as against washing machines or visitors. However, insecure cats tend not to spray around their bed area or den, as they prefer to mark these areas with facial rubbings.

• How can spraying be treated?

Vet checks: always get your cat checked by a vet before attempting to solve the problem, as it is best to rule out any potential medical causes for the problem behaviour.

Avoid punishment: even if a cat is caught in the act of spraying, verbally or physically punishing the cat will only increase its anxiety levels and may make the problem worse.

Clever cleaning: not cleaning the area properly can further fuel the problem. Use one part biological washing powder to nine parts water to clean the area, wait for this to dry and wipe over with surgical spirit. Deny your cat access to the area while it is drying. Don't use anything containing ammonia or chlorine, like bleach or detergents, as this will emphasise the urine smell to the cat who may then spray urine in the same place again. Placing food or a bed near the cleaned area can help as the cat will be reluctant to spray there again.

Make a diagnosis: spraying may occur for just one or a combination of different reasons. If you can identify where and when the behaviour started and what else may have changed in the environment that may have triggered your cat to start spraying, you can attempt to remove the reason for the cat's anxiety. For example, if another cat is threatening your cat's territory by coming in through the cat flap, block up the cat flap for a time so it can't come in.

Ask a behaviourist: spraying can be triggered by a number of reasons and sometimes the cat may have been doing it all its life. If you think the problem may be complex, seek the advice of a feline behaviourist or contact Battersea's Behaviour Advice Line for advice on 0905 020 0222 (calls cost 25p per minute).

Lesson Eight - Don't leave me this way

Of all the calls the Behaviour Advice Line at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home receive every day, some behaviour queries and concerns are more common than others. In this lesson we ask our behaviour advisors to answer the common question - why does my dog bark when I leave him?

Being left alone can be very hard for some dogs to come to terms with. If your dog barks as soon as he is left then he's suffering from anxiety and has become over attached to you - barking helps him cope with the stress. It is very important to get a dog like this used to being left alone and there are a number of ways to do it.

• If there's a room in your home where your dog feels happy and relaxed, you could start leaving your dog in this room. Build up the time slowly so that your dog begins to get used to the idea of being left.

• Try closing the curtains, playing music or leaving the television on. Place something that smells of you outside of the door, along the bottom, to persuade the dog that you are in and around the house. You should also make sure that your dog is well exercised before you go out.

• When you leave a room, place a stuffed Kong or marrowbone on the floor for your dog. On returning, draw attention to the Kong, pick it up and put it away. You can then use this technique when you go out so the dog associates your leaving him with a positive, tasty experience.

• Help alleviate your dogs anxiety about you leaving the house by getting him so used to your leaving routine that he no longer takes any notice. Get ready to go out as normal, but instead of leaving the house go and read a book or watch TV for a few minutes, ignoring your dog's reactions. Carry out this routine as often as you can and at different times of the day. After a while, when you prepare to go out your dog will be unsure whether you are leaving or not. This may confuse him but he will definitely be less stressed.

• Do not make any fuss of your dog just before leaving, as this will make him anticipate your leaving and so make him anxious. Equally, do not make any fuss of your dog immediately on your return, as this is likely to get him over excited. You may end up reinforcing the wrong behaviours, such as, jumping up or barking. Wait until your dog is calm and relaxed before giving him any attention.

If you need more information on this or any other behavioural problem with your pet, call the Behaviour Hotline on 0905 020 0222 (calls cost 25p per minute).

Lesson Nine - Children and dogs

In this Pet Behaviour School, Lisa Graham of Battersea's Behaviour Advice Line takes a look at how to establish and maintain a good relationship between children and dogs.

• Dogs are frequently brought into Battersea because of difficulties between the dog and the children. It's not that surprising when you consider that children are learning about interaction and play themselves so to place an untrained child with an untrained dog can be a recipe for disaster. Children need guidance in order to interact with a dog in a productive and positive way. Supervision plays a key role in this but teaching your child how to interact with a dog is even more important.

• Children should be encouraged to engage in games that revolve around stimulating the dogs senses, teaching the dog self control and encouraging positive behaviour. Try food orientated games that provide the dog with mental stimulation by the child hiding the dog's food around the house then watching while the dog tries to find his dinner. Balls and toys can be used in the same way but the dog needs to be able to sit, fetch and release the toy to prevent any misunderstandings.

• Children can be encouraged to teach the dog silly tricks, this form of training appeals most to many children; like teaching the dog to roll over, sit up and beg or even play dead. Take your child along to training classes and encourage participation in training both in class and at home. You should initiate the training but once the dog understands what is being asked of him, your child can take over. Children can also help to 'work' the dog in sports such as agility, flyball, obedience or swimming - there are various junior organisations in these sports.

• It goes without saying that any interaction between a child and a dog needs to be supervised by an adult young children should never be left on their own with a dog. Don't let games between your child and dog get out of hand the child needs to stay in control to prevent unintentional injuries or the dog learning bad behaviour. Try not to let your child play games that end up in their rolling around the floor with the dog. The dog sees the child as a member of his 'pack' and may try to rise above the child's position in the pack.

• A child and a dog need to build their relationship on respect for each other. If the interaction between them is positive, controlled and safe, they will build a mutually beneficial and strong friendship.

Lesson Ten - Leading to frustration

Lead frustration is a common problem in dogs, especially if, by being on a lead, they are denying the social interaction with other dogs that they crave. Tara Devonport of Battersea's behaviour advice line describes the problem and some solutions.

Dogs are instinctively social animals and when denied the opportunity to make social contact with other dogs, some can become easily frustrated. This typically tends to occur because the dog is on lead.

It's a vicious circle - the more frustrated the dog gets, the more he pulls; the more the dog pulls the more frustrated the owner gets trying to pull him back; the more the owner pulls the dog back, the more frustrated the dog gets.

In desperation, the owner may try to allow their dog access to as many dogs as possible in hope of curing the problem, or if the owner has lost confidence in the dog the dog may be prevented from ever going off lead. Unfortunately, unlimited access to other dogs simply increases the dog's excitement when he sees other dogs, so adding to his frustration when he's on the lead. Never letting the dog off the lead adds to his frustration too, as he never manages to come in contact with other dogs.

If your dog displays problematic behaviour while on his lead, you should seek expert advice. However, prevention is always better than cure.

The key to preventing lead frustration is to teach your dog self control, and to focus on you, while allowing him to build good positive experiences with other dogs. He needs to understand that he can have access to other dogs but only through calm, polite behaviour, and by complying with you.

1.Teach your dog to walk on a loose lead, in a controlled and focused way.
2.Teach your dog a 'sit' and a 'focus' command, like 'look at me' to help you gain your dog's attention.
3.Use toys and treats to play games with your dog when you go out, perhaps only allow your dog access to a favourite toy while out on walks. Your dog should view you as the most fun thing out on a walk, even more fun than other dogs.
4.Teach him a command such as 'go play', so he learns that other dogs can be played with, but only when you give the command.
5.Make sure you can always recall your dog, even when there are distractions.

Lesson Eleven - Aggression in cats

Cat owners sometimes just can't understand why their cats can be friendly one minute but scratching and biting them the next. Ali Taylor, Battersea's Head Behaviourist, takes a look at aggression in cats.

Cats can aggressively defend their territory but this is not often directed towards people. However, there are a number of reasons why a cat can show aggressive behaviour towards her owner.

'Leave me alone' aggression

Cats vary in how much they like to be petted or held and while it may seem that your cat bites you out of the blue, there are usually a number of signs that she's had enough. She may become restless, flicking her ears and lashing her tail, then turning her head towards you before actually biting you. You can try and encourage your cat to allow you to pet her by offering her a few tasty treats while she is being stroked, helping her associate stroking with something rewarding. Try this over a period of time, slowly extending the amount of time you stroke her in each session.

Redirected aggression

Your cat may be feeling aggressive towards one person or animal but then takes it out on another one. For instance, if two cats have a fight, the losing cat, still aroused by the fight, may then bite or scratch you.

Fearful and defensive aggression

A fearful cat may look submissive by crouching on the floor with her ears back, tail tucked, and possibly rolling slightly to the side. In fact, she is not submissive but frightened and may attack you if you approach her.

Playful aggression

Domestic cats use play to practise the skills they would need for survival in the wild. They like to investigate anything that moves; patting at it, pouncing on it and biting it because it resembles prey. Unsuspecting owners may be pounced on coming down the stairs or even in bed, moving under the covers. You should play with your cat regularly to provide her with the stimulation she would gain from hunting in the wild but don't encourage playful aggression by allowing your cat to bite or play with your hands; use toys such as a stick with a toy on a string.

Do's and Don'ts

�Get your cat checked out by your vet to rule out any medical reasons for her behaviour.
�Don't punish your cat as punishment could make the aggression worse by making the cat more angry or fearful.
�Supervise your cat's activities around people and restrict interaction with people if necessary.
�Don't try and handle an aggressive or fearful cat.
�If the problem is serious or worries you, get some help from an animal behaviourist.

For more information or help on your cat's behaviour, call Battersea's Behaviour Advice Line on 0905 020 0222 (calls cost 25p per minute)

Lesson Twelve - Chewing

The most common reason a dog chews up the house when he's left alone is boredom, but luckily it is one of the easiest problems to solve.

How can I stop my dog getting bored?

Always leave things for him to play when you are absent, but don't just leave his favourite toy as he will soon get bored with it. Build up a collection of round 20 toys and leave a different two down each time, making sure you pick up his toys when you get home.

Will any toys do?

Toys like balls, raggers, rubber bones and soft toys won't interest him if there isn't a human being on the other end, so you should use toys that reward your dog with food.

Is there a good one to start with?

You could try an activity ball, but show your dog how it is done at first, introducing him to it on its easiest setting. Use smelly treats such as small cubes of cheese, chicken or liver rather than his normal food.

What next?

Once your dog is used to an activity ball, try a buster cube. Put the food in the cube but take out the core that adjusts the difficulty level of getting the food out until he is used to it. Then replace the core on its simplest setting and keep upping the setting as your dog gets better at it.

What about a Kong?

Always choose the right size Kong, one your dog cannot get his jaw into.

Start with food that will easily fall out, like loose kibble, then increase the difficulty by squeezing larger biscuits in through the hole or soaking the kibble to form a paste. Eventually, fill the Kong with layers of different goodies so your dog has to work out different ways of getting them out.


Is there anything I should not do?

Activity balls and buster cubes are not suitable for all dogs as they can cause frustration and lead to more serious problems. If you own more than one dog don't leave them alone with any of these toys as a fight could break out. Don't use these toys if you can't touch your dog while he is eating or cannot remove food from him easily. If in doubt, call our Behaviour Advice Line for advice.

What other ways can I keep boredom at bay?

Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise and play lots of games with him when you are home, but give him a cooling off period before you leave, so he is relaxed when you go. You could try to arrange for someone to visit your dog during the day to break up the monotony.

Remember there are many other reasons why your dog is destructive when he is left alone, other than boredom. You should consult an expert if the behaviour continues and before it becomes a serious problem.

Battersea Dogs & Cats Home's Behaviour Advice Line: 0905 020 0222 (calls cost 25p per minute)