Basic Training

Many rescue dogs can have problems with basic 'manners', simply because they haven't been trained properly in their previous home. This can lead to new owners having to go "back to basics" on training.

• So why train?
• Before you start.
• Sit
• Down
• Recall
• Walking to heel
• Jumping up
• Play biting and mouthing
• Car travel
• Housetraining
• Fears and Phobias
• Mental and Physical Stimulation

So why train?

Even if your dog doesn't have problems with his manners, training is still an important part of your relationship with him as it creates a bond between dog and owner.

Teaching your dog even the most basic of commands means you can control his actions, and also ensures that he fits in with the social etiquette imposed on him by the human world. Remember that it's the responsibility of all dog owners to ensure that dogs are controlled in public places.

Ideally, all dogs would be trained as puppies as they learn more quickly and, once they've mastered the commands, with practice they retain them for life.

However, if you've taken on a rescue dog this may not be possible. Sometimes you may find yourself faced with a dog which has either never been trained or has forgotten what he was taught in the first place. Do not despair! Training classes are always a great idea, and you should enrol in one as soon as you can after taking your new dog home. There are also lots of commands you can teach your dog yourself at home. Ali Taylor, Head Behaviourist at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, offers some useful pointers on how to go about training your dog.

Before you start.

Before you start training, there are a few useful things to remember.

• Make training sessions a positive experience for both you and your dog.


• Keep sessions short - three ten-minute sessions are better than one thirty- minute one.


• Always end on a good note - ask your dog to do something he's good at, and reward him well.


• Stop if you feel yourself getting frustrated or angry, as you will pass these feelings on to the dog.


• Use kind facial expressions and body posture, and be clear in your commands. Reinforce each command with hand, arm or body signals.


• Be consistent in your training and praise and use the same commands and praise in each session.


• Reward correct actions immediately.


• Use rewards to your advantage - whether they be treats, toys or praise - and use as many as you can. This will keep your dog guessing and fuel his motivation.


• Make training sessions fun! Dogs are born to play, so if the session is fun he will be more likely to learn and remember.

It may take weeks of patience over many training sessions until he gets it right every time. Try not to expect too much of him too soon - he's not designed to respond to the spoken word, so if you don't think he's quite understood, keep trying.

Dogs learn by association - they learn to associate actions with rewards. Keep distractions to a minimum to begin with, then increase them slowly, and try to repeat training sessions in as many different locations as you can. Your dog should pick up on the fact that anything around him is irrelevant, and that only the command that leads to the correct action gets the reward.

Sit

Getting your dog to sit is one of the most basic commands, and the most useful. You have more control over your dog and you can get him to calm down when meeting people or being checked over.

The basic method for getting your dog to sit on command.

Offer a reward and ask the dog to sit. If he doesn't, hold the treat right in front of his nose.

Move the treat upwards and backwards, over his head. As his nose follows it, his bottom should go down.

If he moves backwards, place him against a wall so he can't reverse.

Give him the treat as soon as his bottom touches the floor, with lots of praise.

Practise this sequence over several sessions until the dog begins to understand what he has to do.

Eventually he will learn to sit when you hold the treat above him, and that the word "sit" is associated with the treat.

Practise in lots of different locations and circumstances until he always sits when you ask him to.

Down

The down command naturally follows 'sit', and is a crucial part of dog training. If you can get your dog to go into the down position you may well be able to stop him getting into trouble, especially if other dogs come along. He will seem subservient and not up for a fight. It is also an important factor in gaining control.

There are three ways to teach the down position and you should stick to one method in order not to confuse your dog.

Method 1 - the conventional route

Get your dog to sit holding a treat between your finger and thumb just over his nose

Gradually lower the treat and get him to follow it to the floor whilst giving the down command

Once he is lying down give him the treat

Repeat several times

Method 2 - the reward

Get your dog to lie down by repeating the down command and offering praise or a treat each time he responds

Repeat several times then wait for your dog to lie down of his own accord

The good associations will make him want to go down when you ask him

Method 3 - one for the puppies

Crouch down on the floor with one leg out to the side in a bridge position, leaving just enough room for the puppy to crawl underneath

He should automatically go into the down position - as soon as he does, reward him with a treat

Repeat this technique several times then gradually start taking your leg away as he gets the hang of it

Eventually you should wait for the down to happen without giving him the command - when that happens, reward your puppy.

Recall

Ever had an embarrassing experience in your local park, bellowing at your dog to come back to you when he seems to have suddenly acquired 'selective hearing'? Being able to effectively recall your dog at any time is very important. Recall is all about being a responsible dog owner.

Apart from 'selective hearing', there are several reasons why dogs don't come when called:

Some owners tell their dogs off when they eventually come back, which gives the dog very confusing signals. He won't want to come back in this case he'll be too afraid of being punished

Some dogs look for their own entertainment, such as playing with other dogs or chasing squirrels and don't want the fun to end

Owners sometimes inadvertently teach dogs not to come back by using the command at the wrong time. If your dog is involved in play or exploring whilst being called he may associate the signal 'come' not with coming to you, but with the activity he was enjoying at the time

Step 1

Begin in a controlled environment such as indoors or a fenced-in garden, where there are no distractions

Always use the same recall command and never sound angry

Try calling his name throughout the day and get him to come to you - when he does, give him a treat or initiate a game

Make coming to you fun - it's the best incentive!

Step 2
Once your dog has learnt to come when you call his name, add the recall command so that he gets used to the sound

Step 3
Once he gets the recall command, try introducing a few distractions by taking him outside. Keep him on a long lead and see if he will still come to you

Step 4

When you are confident that your dog has learnt recall, go to the park and let him off the lead (making sure that it's safe and allowed!)

Try going out with another dog owner whose dog is used to being called in open spaces

Recall both dogs at the same time and reward the one who gets back first

Walking to heel

Teaching your dog to walk alongside you, to heel, is an essential part of his training. There is nothing more frustrating or exhausting as an owner than taking the dog out for his daily walks and being dragged all the way. If your dog is constantly pulling on the lead, you have no control over him, and unwanted behaviours may well develop as a result. Walking to heel, both on and off the lead, is essential for basic control.

There are several ways to teach your dog to walk to heel, but you should choose and stick to one to avoid confusing him.

Step 1

Position yourself so that your dog walks on your left

Hold the lead across you in your right hand, which helps you gain control

You can train the dog on the right hand side, but heel work is done on the left at training classes and in obedience, so if you want to do either of these, start training on the left hand side. The aim is to get your dog to walk along beside you rather than pulling away in front of you

Step 2

It is essential that you persevere with the heel training. Your dog will not learn overnight but with time he will come to learn what you expect of him

Every time the dog pulls forward and you feel the lead tightening, stand still and hold your position by keeping your arms to your side

If your dog continues to pull, give the lead a firm tug. He should stop pulling immediately

Step 3

When your dog turns to see why you have stopped, encourage him to come back to you by speaking to him and giving him a treat

When he returns to your side, continue walking or turn around

Step 4

Keep the lead fairly loose and carry on walking, as long as your dog isn't pulling on the lead

Whenever he does pull and the lead tightens repeat stages 1,2 & 3

Your dog doesn't need to be by your side all the time; with a flexi-lead he can have a wander but the lead should remain slack

Jumping up

Part of the process of training is teaching your dog not to display unwanted behaviours. Some behavioural traits may have been acceptable - or even encouraged - during puppyhood, but can become undesirable as the puppy grows up. Jumping up is one of these.

Dogs jump up at people as a form of greeting and always seem to be attempting to get as close to the person's mouth as possible. If your reaction to this is either attention or affection, your dog will assume that it's in its interest to carry on jumping up in order to keep being rewarded. However, jumping up is not always desirable and could even be dangerous to a frail person or a small child. To stop this behaviour, follow some simple steps:-

Step 1 - ignore the dog

Each time your dog jumps up at you, turn away from him, ignore him and walk away (and remember: this means no eye contact, touching or speaking)

If his four paws remain on the ground, reward your dog calmly - don't go over the top with the praise, as this may overexcite him and undo your good work

Step 2 - vary the praise when he doesn't jump up

Vary your praise between a simple smile, a 'good dog', a gentle stroke or a treat. This will also keep your dog guessing and teach him not to expect food as a regular and predictable reward

Praise is a very useful tool in teaching your dog to behave, as he will quickly learn which actions bring which rewards, and that the results are always more rewarding when he chooses to practice good behaviour instead of bad

Step 3 - teach him to sit instead of jump

Use the sit command when your dog jumps up, followed by praise when he does sit

As he learns to associate this action with praise, your dog should start sitting without being told

You should still praise him for it, to strengthen the good associations

Play biting and mouthing

To a dog, mouthing is simply another one of his ways of communicating - by taking your hand in his mouth to get your attention, but in a far gentler way than a bite. Puppies interact with their mother and siblings (the pack) by pulling at their ears and tails - not intending to hurt or alarm them, but simply to get attention.

However, as puppies grow up, so do their teeth, and other 'pack members' - and some owners - become intolerant of any biting behaviour. When a puppy goes into a home environment he must be taught which behaviour is acceptable to his new family. To correct mouthing and play biting in an adult dog, follow these steps.

Step 1 - just say "no"

When your dog starts to mouth or play bite, give a loud yelp or a firm "no" command

Ignore the dog for a few minutes

He should learn that he gets more attention and praise by not using his mouth

If you think you need a more sophisticated approach, try the next step.

Step 2 - the reward for getting 'off'

Hold a treat and make sure you have your dog's attention

Get him to sit so he is focused on the treat, held just in front of his face

When he tries to jump up and snatch the food, take it out of his reach and say "off" quietly and firmly

When he turns his face away or steps back, give him the reward and praise him

Keep up the training regularly, and once he's got the knack of the "off" command you can use it to stop your dog from mouthing or play biting. Remember to give praise where it's earned!

Car travel

Are you being driven up the wall by a canine passenger - mad behaviour in the car, car sickness - or both? There are a number of things you can do to help your dog overcome these habits when out in the car.

Barking mad or road-rage?

Two common problems include barking during car journeys and frantic "chasing" activity - in other words, a dog who just can't keep quiet - or still - in the car.

1. Walkies

If you think about it, the majority of trips your dog takes in the car with you usually end up in "walkies", which is very exciting for the dog. Unfortunately for you or your passenger, dogs often express their delight by barking in your ear! Try breaking this behaviour pattern:

Take your dog on ordinary, mundane trips in the car, outside his regular walking routine. Once he realises that not every car journey is worth getting worked up about, his behaviour should calm down.

Take your dog in the car to your usual walking place. If he barks during the journey, don't react. To the dog, your reaction to him reinforces his excitement. Once you reach your destination, wait in the car until he calms down. This will help to break the associations he has built up with travelling in the car.

You can also try pulling over and stopping the car whenever your dog gets over excited, and not starting again until he's calmed down.

2. Car madness

Dogs that bark at anything they see out of the windows can be very wearing, especially on long journeys. Your dog could be doing this for one of two reasons: either he is possessive and attempting to "guard" your car, or he could be showing signs of hunting or herding behaviour - trying to "round up" passing vehicles. Use a lead attached to your dog's collar, so he is able to lie down comfortably below window level in the back of the car (in a hatchback or estate). If he can't see the back of your head when you are driving he is less likely to bark to attract your attention. This is also a good idea from a safety point of view, in the event of a car crash.

a note on puppies

Stopping this type of behaviour in puppies is relatively easy - just make sure he travels in the back of the car from the moment you take him home. Small, cute, vulnerable puppies are often allowed to travel on a passenger's lap, where he gets lots of attention. When he gets bigger and is expected to travel in the back of the car, it's not surprising that he starts to bark or misbehave - he's just trying to get the attention he's come to expect in the car.

Sick as a dog?

Many dogs suffer from car sickness when travelling. In puppies, it's probably a reaction to being taken away from their mother or litter and being placed in a strange moving environment, and it could lead to traumatic associations with cars in later life. There are ways to reduce some of this anxiety and encourage happy and nausea-free travel. Of course, if problems continue, you should see your vet.

Introduce your dog to the car when it's stationary, i.e., when you don't have plans to go anywhere in it.

Take your dog's meal outside and put it in the car with him watching. Let him jump in and eat it. Repeat this exercise to reinforce good associations with the car.

Try to avoid feeding the dog before you begin a journey.

When on the move, provide fresh air, but don't let your dog travel with his head out of the window, as this can cause eye damage.

Avoid smoking in the car. This can have a nauseous effect on humans, so we can assume that it won't help a dog who is feeling queasy either.

On long journeys, make sure you make regular stops for brief walks, this will benefit the driver too.

If your dog looks confident and happy when the car is in motion, feed him small pieces of food as a reward, and to build up good associations.

Housetraining

Teaching your dog where and when to go to the toilet

When housetraining your dog, it doesn't matter whether you are starting the process with a puppy or an adult dog, your aim is to teach him that it is not acceptable to go to the toilet in the house. Any new dog requires some training, but as we all know, rescue dogs are special, they can also present more of a challenge, as less is known of their history and they may have unknown triggers which cause them to mess at home.

Five easy steps to stress-free housetraining

Learn to predict when your dog will need to go to the toilet. This is usually after he has eaten, woken up, after a play session or after any exciting event. Most dogs will do a number of things before they actually leave a puddle (or something worse) on the carpet in front of you. They may sniff around on the floor, begin to circle or squat, and appear to be distracted

When you suspect that your dog needs to go to the toilet, encourage him to come into the garden. Show him to the same place each time and give a simple command, such as "Be quick!". Wait with him, and if he goes to the toilet, praise him gently while he is doing it, then praise him enthusiastically afterwards, and give him a tasty food treat or initiate a game

If your dog is showing no signs of relieving himself after a few minutes, take him back indoors. At this stage you know he is very likely to go in the near future so supervise him constantly. If he begins to sniff around or circle, clap your hands or call out to interrupt the behaviour, then lead him back to the garden

At times when you are unable to supervise your dog, it is important to confine him somewhere where you won't mind if he makes a mess

NEVER punish him for messing in the house, train him out of it instead. If you punish him it may make him more fearful and prone to go to the toilet even more. He may try to hide his mess from you, either by going in concealed areas, such as behind the sofa, or by eating the evidence. It may also encourage him never to go to the toilet in front of you, making housetraining practically impossible

Housetraining Advice for Your Rescue Dog

During the early days with your rescue dog, try to stick to a schedule for feeding, walking and sleeping. This will help him adjust more quickly to your routines and away from those he was used to in a kennel environment. Until he has had time to adjust, leave newspaper on the floor by the back door whenever you leave him so that he can go to the toilet on this if necessary. Place polythene underneath the newspaper to prevent any leakage onto the floor. This is important as your dog's strong sense of smell will invariably attract him back to go to the toilet in the same place.

Most adult dogs will have been house-trained, but some may have been in kennels for a long time and may need reminding. Take your dog outside to the garden on numerous occasions and build up the routine of regular walks during the first few days to remind him of the right place to go. When taking him to the garden, make sure you stay with him for reassurance, and praise him when he goes to the toilet. Older dogs normally prefer a secluded area in the garden to relieve themselves, and may be unwilling to go to the toilet while on a lead.

Your dog is likely to be both excited and slightly anxious during the first few days of his new life. He may develop loose bowels, which may in turn cause him to have house-training accidents. If this occurs, try not to be upset or react adversely towards him. Clean the soiled area with biological washing powder solution or special products available from your veterinary practice. Many other household cleaning products will not remove the smell entirely, and your dog may be attracted back to the area.

Fears and Phobias

Dogs can harbour anxieties and phobias just like we do, though often to an even greater extent. Common phobias often include vacuum cleaners, thunder or any loud, sudden noises, but some rescue dogs in particular can have even more irrational-seeming fears such as brooms.

If you have had your dog since puppyhood, you may be able to work out the triggers which make him behave this way. However, rescue dogs can often present more of a challenge, as less is known of their history.

Puppy to Adult

As a puppy is growing up he will naturally come across a wide range of new and potentially frightening, even terrifying, situations. But with the reassuring presence of his mother, brother, sisters, and eventually his owner, the young dog can get used to dealing with them. Any dog's future depends on his early experiences and training, as does his capacity to assess situations more or less likely to cause fear or distress.

Another factor is where and how the puppy has been raised. If reared in a quiet, remote area where he is unaccustomed to everyday noises, then he will of course become immediately suspicious or fearful if rehomed to a noisy environment. Many rescue dogs experience this, and Battersea receives some who have never been socialised with other dogs, let off a lead, or taken out much, so fear of traffic noises is a common phobia.

Equally, if adult dogs develop a fear then this could rub off onto a litter. It is important to introduce any puppy to as many different noises and places as possible whilst he is young enough to decrease the chance of such phobias arising later in life.

Even if an adult dog finds certain situations terrifying, it is never too late to take remedial action. There are a number of ways of lowering the dog's level of sensitivity to anxiety-causing stimuli. Thunderstorms often cause panic for several reasons. Firstly, changes take place in atmospheric pressure and humidity, which dogs are far more sensitive to than humans. Then there are changes in light conditions; in particular a darkening sky and flashes of lightening. Finally, there is usually heavy rainfall punctuated by loud claps of thunder. Although it is clearly not possible for the owner to familiarise the dog with all these eventualities, much can be done to overcome any fear of loud noises.

Desensitisation

The method is quite simple: play your dog a recording of thunder; initially so low that he does not react, then gradually increase the volume after a few days, but don't rush this part or you could end up undoing all your good work.

At the same time, reassure him, play with him and reward him with his favourite treats and toys. A dog will not eat if he is afraid. Therefore, if he accepts a piece of treat during this training session then you are well on your way to winning him over. You will then be able to use this system to block out any noises from outside; the trick is to distract your dog with pleasant alternatives to the noise causing the phobia. This will involve some work on your part as you will need to provide these distractions whenever there is a thunderstorm, for instance, but in time you should succeed in totally desensitising your dog to the problem.

There are a number of soundtracks available with a range of noises - from children crying, fireworks, gunshots etc. - that you can use to help with the process. These are available from any major music retailers. Alternatively, you could record some soundtracks of your own to play back to your dog.

Four Easy Steps to Dealing With Phobias

Play your dog a recording of the sound that frightens him, but remember to start with the volume low and build it up gradually

Offer your dog treats or initiate a game at the same time, to distract him from the recording

If he takes the treat or joins in the game, praise him

Repeat this procedure every time you encounter the phobia, and in time your dog will become more relaxed and desensitised

Mental and Physical Stimulation

Going Mental

During the alarming outbreak of foot and mouth disease in 2001, many owners found it difficult to give their dogs their usual amount of exercise. But, interaction with your dog is always important, whether or not you are restricted in where you can walk him. Depending on his individual needs, you need to make sure you are keeping your dog both physically fit and mentally alert. For example, if you own a Border Collie, a daily walk is not enough. Collies are highly intelligent and will need plenty of additional stimuli at home regardless of whether or not you are with them all day.

Game On - physical stimulation

Interactive games involving both you and your dog working together are an excellent and enjoyable way of training your dog in simple tasks. They can also provide him with some of the mental stimulation he may be lacking. Here are some guidelines for a simple retrieval exercise which you can try at home in the garden:

Step 1: "FETCH!"

Tell your dog to sit, and start by throwing something - perhaps a favourite toy or a ball- about six paces away from you.

As you throw it, tell your dog to "fetch".

As he runs after it, follow him for a few paces.

Step 2: GIVE AND TAKE

As the dog picks up the toy, run away from him, so he chases you.

When he catches up with you, turn to him and put one hand out, telling him to "give" you the toy.

As he does so, reward him with a treat from the other hand.

Step 3: UPPING THE ANTE

Practice this often over a few weeks, gradually increasing the distance you throw the toy.

If your dog starts getting bored with the game stop straightaway, as you need to keep him motivated.

Once you've mastered this you can start to introduce new items; e.g. a shoe, a towel or a lead

Repeat the game, but say, "Fetch the shoe/towel/lead!" as you throw it

Over time, your dog should be able to retrieve these by name, and you will both have fun in the process!

You could also try other games - such as tug of war or hide and seek - in the garden.

Give a Dog a Bone - using food for training and stimulation

Food is an important part of your dog's daily routine and if used inventively can keep him amused for ages.

Rather than just feeding your dog from his bowl you could hide his food in small portions around the house, allowing him to hunt for it by sniffing it out.

Kongs are great for encouraging your dog to hunt for his food and treats.

Place some food or treats inside the kong and then leave it for your dog to work out.

For added mental stimulation you could hide the toy somewhere in the house for your dog to find.

Activity balls work on much the same basis, but with small, dry treats or food. Place a handful of treats inside so that they fall out as it rolls along the floor.

Whether you are temporarily restricted in the areas where you can walk your dog or not, it's a good idea to continue these games and activities as a way of spending time with him and showing him that you are happy to give him lots of attention.